Robert Parker’s - The Wine Advocate
Cantina del Pino
Piedmont
2004 BARBARESCO OVELLO 94
2005 BARBARESCO 92

2004 BARBARESCO 92
2003 BARBARESCO 90
2003 BARBARESCO OVELLO 92

2002 BARBARESCO OVELLO 89
2001 BARBARESCO OVELLO 92

2004 Barbaresco

Robert Parker's - The Wine Advocate

2004 BARBARESCO 92
Proprietor Renato Vacca has emerged as one of the leading lights of Barbaresco within just the last few years. His 2004 Barbaresco is another super effort. It reveals fresh aromatics with just the lightest touch of oak followed by sweet, perfumed fruit that blossoms on the palate. Made in an accessible, approachable style, it offers notable purity of expression and terrific overall harmony. Vacca will release his single-vineyard 2004 Barbaresco Ovello in 2008, but the normal certainly bodes well for that wine. Readers who are new to Barbaresco and want to experience the essence of what these wines are all about without spending a fortune should start here. Cantina del Pino's 2004 Barbaresco offers phenomenal quality at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. Various American importers.

2001 & 2003 Barbaresco


Robert Parker’s - The Wine Advocate

ITALY’S 2001 & 2003 BARBARSCO VINTAGES p 41 by Antonio Galloni
CANTINA DEL PINO 2003 BARBARESCO PIEDMONT ($40.00) RED 90
CANTINA DEL PINO 2003 BARBARESCO OVELLO PIEDMONT ($55.00) RED 92

CANTINA DEL PINO 2002 BARBARESCO OVELLO PIEDMONT ($50.00) RED 89
CANTINA DEL PINO 2001 BARBARESCO OVELLO PIEDMONT ($50.00) RED 92

I have been hearing rave reviews about this small producer for some time so I was happy to finally have a chance to stop by the winery and spend some time with proprietor Renato Vacca. Humble, down-to-earth, yet intensely driven, Vacca is making some of the most exciting wines in the region. Prior to 1997, Vacca sold his fruit to the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative run by his cousin Aldo Vacca, but that year he started making wines on his own, a choice that seems to be paying off. Vacca’s holdings are concentrated in and around the Ovello vineyard, a site long noted for its combination of cooler microclimate and poor soils, which give structured, age-worthy Barbarescos. Not only were the wines from Cantina del Pino among the standouts of my tastings, they also happen to be among the best values in Barbaresco. In short, I can’t say enough good things about the wines of Renato Vacca. Readers owe it to themselves to check out this up-and-coming producer.
Cantina del Pino’s
2003 Barbaresco opens with a captivating nose followed by rich sensations of toasted oak, minerals, menthol, licorice and ripe red fruit on a medium-bodied frame with good balance as well as freshness, for the vintage. In my blind tastings of the 2003 Barbarescos this wine more than held its own alongside many of the top single-vineyard bottlings and it is undoubtedly one of the vintage’s overachievers. Made from a blend of fruit from the Albesani and Starderi vineyards in Neive and the less well-exposed portions of Ovello in Barbaresco, its anticipated maturity is 2008-2015. The 2003 Barbaresco Ovello (aged 50% in new barriques, 50% in one-year old barriques for 14 months followed by one year in cask) is another terrific effort from Vacca. It displays more color as well as weight than the Barbaresco normale with deep, penetrating aromatics, richly layered suggestions of sweet fruit, toasted oak and menthol and finely-integrated tannins. Showing plenty of stuffing to fill its ample frame, it is still a baby and will require a few years to absorb the oak, but it is already shaping upas one of the vintage’s successes. It will be released in 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.
An unqualified success for the vintage, the deeply-colored
2002 Barbaresco Ovello is quite classic in its nuances of menthol, licorice, earthiness, herbs, toasted oak and sweet fruit with a powerful personality. Though it shows the somewhat compact, lean structure of the vintage it offers notable balance in a potent style. In 2002 vacca only owned new barriques so this wine got the full new oak treatment, yet yields were tiny, averaging just 25 quintals per hectare, and this wine maintains a terrific sense of balance, which can only be considered an extraordinary achievement given the vintage. Vacca is so confident about the quality of his 2002 that he decided to release it a year later rather than risk getting lost in a sea of otherwise largely mediocre wines. “In 2002 we had very low yields and the berries were quite small with thick skins. To me, my 2002 is a more complete wine than my 2003,” says Vacca. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2017.
The
2001 Barbaresco Ovello concludes this very strong showing. It displays a dark ruby color along with extraordinary purity in its vibrant licorice, black cherry and toasted oak flavors, with much finesse, persistence on the palate and terrific underlying structure. A lovely lingering balsamic note frames the sublime finish. A great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.